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The Federation of Independent Burgundian and Jura winemakers brings together 66 winemakers from Burgundy and the French Jura. Together they will present several hundred wines. Not only will you save yourself the drive to Burgundy and the Jura, you will also get the undivided attention of all these wine makers under one roof. The wine fair takes place from 27 February to 1 March 2015 at the Martin Luther King complex in Annemasse, only 20 minutes from Geneva. It is well known that Burgundy produces some of the worlds most refined reds. It is a region that is highly focused on the red grape variety Pinot Noir as well as the white Chardonnay variety. In 1395 the French Duke Philip the Bold, a vocal fan of Pinot Noir, declared the “vile and disloyal Gamay” unfit for human consumption. While unfair on Gamay, a famously fruity grape grown in the southern Beaujolais region of Burgundy, it demonstrates the fervent passion some wine connoisseurs have had for Pinot Noir wines over the centuries. What the Jura region might lack in fame it makes up for with distinction. This region sitting between Burgundy and Switzerland is famous for producing tasty unusual wines. It is known in particular for the Savagnin grape variety, a white grape which is often used to produce vin jaune (yellow wine) a fortified wine which pairs very well with French Comté cheese and walnuts. Poulsard, Trousseau, and Chardonnay varieties are also grown in the Jura.
So don’t miss this opportunity to meet real independent winemakers. The people involved in growing, harvesting and actually making the wine. They will be there eager to discuss their wines and your reactions to them. When you find wines you like you can buy them at direct prices « comme au caveau ». Not only will you get to add to your cellar at great prices, you will come away with stories. Wine discussions at your next dinner party might well start with you recanting to your guests the convivial history of the wine told by the winemaker. We look forward to welcoming you at this engaging event. A bientôt! For more details on the event and how to get there, click here.
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Wine reveiw – Plan Joyeux 2012, Terres de Lavaux de Lutry
Gamay, Pinot Noir, Gamaret and Garanoir. A wine for hunters and gathers and lovers of Mother Nature.
Lutry is a quaint, pretty little medieval town in the Vaud canton on the edge of Lake Leman. Its origins go way back in time to the Neolithic period. Every year in September it has a great wine harvest festival, which continues for three days. I highly recommend going.
Nose – Earthy aromas mingled with cherries, cranberries, dried banana, and a touch of sage.
Palate – A very desirable effect on the palate with flavours of spice, berry fruits and a slight herbaceous touch to it. Silky fine tannins and captivating warmth. A delightful blend of some of Switzerland’s main red grape varieties (Gamay and Pinot Noir). The Gamaret and Garanoir which are crossings of Gamay and Reichensteiner give this wine depth and complexity.
Vine pruning in the Lavaux
Food Match – With its earthiness, earthy type food is required or best with this wine.  The perfect match would be a Hangi (food cooked under the ground used by the Maoris in New Zealand). A pit is dug, red hot stones are put in the pit, then food wrapped in leaves is placed on the stones and covered by the earth and left for hours to soak up the flavours of the earth. Nothing could be closer to earth flavours than that. But alas you would have to go all the way to New Zealand to obtain such a succulent tasty meal. So instead opt for earthy type foods such as root based vegetable dishes with fresh beetroot, jerusalem artichokes, yams, sweet potatoes and truffles if you can get hold of them. If you don’t have your own veggie garden and are having trouble finding these, I can advise to go to some of the local farms in your area that often sell these vegetables fresh on the spot. See link below. One example of this in the Puidoux Mt Pelerin area is the Ferme de Primapraz which is open daily and has all the old revived vegetables – they even have purple and yellow carrots.
Regarding earthiness – believe it or not, soil cooked in various different ways is now actually part of the menu in some gastronomic restaurants around the world. Here’s to getting back to nature.
Mood match – Still too cold for a picnic. Be in a merry and relaxed mood over lunch with a group of friends in a cosy farmhouse with stunning beautiful views over the countryside. After all Plan Joyeux means a merry plan.
Tip: If the cork breaks in half when removing it, pierce the corkscrew in at an angle and you will be able to retrieve the other half of the cork without it breaking.
Available at Terres de Lavaux
021 791 24 66
Price: 14.80ch
If you’d like to learn more about the local Lavaux wine scene then come along to the Terres de Lavaux vine pruning day on Saturday March 7, 2015. Pruning day is a unique event that invites friends of our cellar to come along once a year and prune the vines with the assistance and advice of professional winemakers. They will also have the opportunity to fill their own personal bottle of Chasselas with the new vintage from Lutry and enjoy an excellent bolets risotto cooked in a copper cauldron over an open wood fire. Guests can also enjoy tasting all of the numerous Terres de Lavaux wines and the assortment of various European wines from our partner Eureka wine. For more information on this event click here.
Nina Bobillier is a wine reviewer and guide. nina@staging.lenews.ch
Piemonte: Probably the best wine region in Italy
Switzerland lies at a wine-making crossroads in Europe. Not only is it home to a diversity of wonderful wines and stunning vineyards, but it also borders some of the richest and most varied wine regions in the world. In this third of a series on our wine-producing neighbours, we head to the Piemonte region of Italy.
Piemonte – literally “at the foot of the mountain†– lies just south of the Alps, under four hours’ drive from Lake Geneva. It is no coincidence that its tradition of fine wines is intimately associated with its great culinary reputation. Home to the priceless white truffle, Piemonte is also the cradle of the Slow Food (and Slow Wine) movement that has spread around the planet. It is Piemonte that we must thank for grissini, risotto, gorgonzola, panna cotta and an array of hazelnut confectionery including gianduja chocolate and the ubiquitous Nutella spread.
The region alone can claim more designated quality wines – DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and DOCG (e Garantita) – than anywhere else in Italy. Moreover, its reference red and white wines are made from single grape varieties rarely found elsewhere.
The distinctive and potent Nebbiolo grape planted on the rolling Langhe hills around Alba makes the world-famous Barolo and Barbaresco. Typified by its haunting scents of tar and roses, these red wines are high in both acidity and tannins and demand patience, especially Barolo. It is worth trying different producers to experience the many expressions of Nebbiolo as these vary according to village and vintage. There are more affordable versions, promising good quality and which can be enjoyed younger, like Nebbiolo d’Alba and Langhe Nebbiolo. Good food pairings include braised beef (brasato al Barolo), roast goose, game like wild duck and pigeon, truffles, pasta con funghi and risotto alla Milanese or with mushrooms. Look out for producers such as Domenico Clerico, Aldo Vajra and Vietti.
Its naturally high acidity makes Barbera an incredibly food-friendly red wine with full body and low tannins. It pairs beautifully with classic Italian tomato-based dishes like spaghetti Bolognese and pizza. This variety is widely planted in Piemonte and bears the name of one of the three DOC zones: Alba, Asti and the Monferrato. More and more Barbera is being aged in oak, which makes the wines rounder and more spicy. Recommended producers include Braida, Elio Altare and Roberto Voerzio.
Dolcetto is the traditional grape used to make soft, fruity red wines with characteristic cherry notes for drinking young. However, there is a growing trend to turn it into a grander wine, though this tends to make it less easy to drink. Serve with grilled or barbecued meats, osso bucco, pasta with a simple tomato sauce and charcuterie. Notable producers are Bruno Giacosa, Claudio Alario and Sottimano.
While the region’s reputation is built on its red wines, there are some local whites that deserve a mention. Gavi made from the Cortese grape is probably the most well-known. Unfortunately, it does not always offer good value for money. A more tempting proposition is Arneis, whose roots are in the sandy hills of Roero. Best drunk young, its wines deliver fairly pronounced aromas of almonds and peaches. It pairs well with grilled fresh fish, tuna tartare, clam chowder and creamy or curried chicken dishes. Producers of note include Malvirà and Matteo Correggia.
A whirlwind tour of this region would be incomplete without referring to its sparkling wines. Many will be familiar with Spumante (previously known as Asti Spumante), though maybe with mixed memories. Made from the Moscato grape (Muscat) this is produced in vast quantities. However, a small amount of its best quality grapes is set aside to make the lightly sweet Moscato d’Asti with its enticing aromas and naturally grape-like flavour. This wine is ‘frizzante’ – lightly fizzy – and also lower in alcohol at 5.5% compared with a Spumante. It lends a refreshingly fruity finish to a meal. If you are tempted, serve it with delicate fruit pastries, light creamy desserts such as panna cotta or peach mousse and fresh fruit salad. Amongst the best producers are Saracco and La Morandina.
Simon Hardy holds a Diploma in Wines & Spirits. He is the founder of Fitting Wines, which provides a range of personalised wine services in Switzerland. simon.hardy@fittingwines.com.
Fêtes de vendages à Russin, Geneva
It is a long and happy tradition in the wine producing areas of the country for wine-growers to celebrate the end of harvest. Geneva produces many fine wines and the vignerons in the village of Russin are typically pretty partial to a good party.
This weekend in the village of Russin on the western side of the canton, the centre-piece of the celebrations is the street procession – a colourful event with farm carts lavishly decorated with flowers accompanied with much fanfare by local marching bands. Around the village local musicians will be playing for the public, so get a glass of wine and wander around taking in the atmosphere. There is also an artisanal or craft market running over the whole weekend.
The fête starts at 11.30 on Saturday and there is a children’s festival that starts at 14h00 (Cost CHF 5-). Saturday’s revelries end for the night at 03h00. Then on Sunday, it all gets going again from 08.30 until 22h30.
For the serious wine taster, a good selection of wines is available to taste at 14h00 on Saturday. Buy a ticket for CHF 20- and be guided by Vincent Debergé, chef sommelier at the Chat-Botté.
The wines to be tasted are:
- Chasselas 2013 – Domaine des Molards
- Aligot̩ 2013 РDomaine du Paradis
- Sauvignon 2013 РSt̩phane Dupraz
- Gamay C̫te de Russin 2013 РCave de Gen̬ve
- Pinot Noir 2011 – Domaine des Graves
- Gamaret 2012 РLes Perri̬res
- Assemblage Rouge 2012 – Domaine de la Vigne Blanche
For further information: fetedesvendangesrussin.ch
Caves ouvertes
Visiting different regions around the country is always a great excuse to go wine tasting (if an excuse is ever needed).
This weekend the Valais producers are opening their cellars to the public.
Valais 29 – 31 May
Click here for more details
РBenǫt Dorsaz, 1926 Fully
– Simon Maye et Fils, 1955 Saint-Pierre-de-Clages
РDomaine Cornulus, 1965 Orm̫ne (Savi̬se)
– Domaines Rouvinez, 3960 Sierre
And for the first weekend in June it’s the turn of cantons Fribourg and Vaud
Fribourg 6 & 8 June
Click here for more details
РVully (R̩gion des Trois-Lacs,)
– Cru de l’Hôpital, 1787 Môtier-Vully
– Javet & Javet, 1789 Lugnorre
Vaud 7 – 8 June
Click here for more details
РLes Fr̬res Dutruy, 1297 Founex
– Domaine du Daley, 1095 Lutry
– Château d’Eclépens, 1312 Eclépens
– Caves des Rois, 1844 Villeneuve
Simon Hardy holds a Diploma in Wines & Spirits. He is the founder of Fitting Wines, which provides a range of personalised wine services in Switzerland. For more information please write to contact@fittingwines.com.
Caves ouvertes – the Swiss wine marathon
The lake offers a fantastic opportunity to taste good wines in exceptional surroundings
Just in case you have nothing planned for four out of the next six weekends, the majority of wine producers throughout Switzerland are throwing open their doors for the annual ‘Caves Ouvertes’ season. If you have enough stamina, inclination and spare time, you can embark on a wine tour round Switzerland and visit literally hundreds of wine cellars to sample the best Swiss wines on offer.
Alternatively, you could stay close to home in the Suisse Romande or go farther afield to discover the Italian or German-speaking wine regions. The Valais and Vaud regions have a certain advantage as their events coincide with the long holiday weekends of Ascension and Whitsun in late May.
Your ticket to endless wine enjoyment is a souvenir glass sold by each region. It is up to you how many times and in how many places you have it refilled. To make your journey from village to village as easy as possible, several regions organize free shuttles and, in some cases, discounted rail travel to different parts. There is usually a tasty selection of local food products on show, not to mention live music and activities for children.
With so many producers to visit, the challenge is to know which ones to choose. For each region, it is worth highlighting a few whose wines definitely merit a detour. To help you get the most out of the day, it is worth checking the key information on the various regional websites shown below.
Bon voyage et bonne dégustation!
BOX
Suisse Alémanique / 1, 3, 4 May
www.offeneweinkeller.ch
– Weingut Pircher, 8193 Eglisau
– Peter Wegelin, 7208 Malans
– VOLG Weinkellerei Goldenberg, 8400 Winterthur
– Weinkellerei Rahm, 8215 Hallau
Lac de Bienne (Région des Trois-Lacs) / 1, 3, 4 May
www.vinsdulacdebienne.ch
РAndreywein, 2513 Ligerz / Gl̩resse
Neuchâtel (Région des Trois-Lacs) / 2-3 May
www.ovpt.ch
– Château d’Auvernier, 2010 Auvernier
– Domaine des Lauriers, 2088 Cressier
Genève / 24 May
www.geneveterroir.ch
– Clos des Pins, 1283 Dardagny
– Domaine des Curiades, Lully, 1233 Bernex
РDomaine Villard & Fils, 1247 Asni̬res
Ticino / 24-25 May
www.ticinowine.ch
– Brivio Vini & Gialdi Vini, 6850 Mendrisio
– Daniel Huber, 6998 Termine
– Azienda Mondò, 6514 Sementina
Valais / 29-31 May
www.lesvinsduvalais.ch
РBenǫt Dorsaz, 1926 Fully
– Simon Maye et Fils, 1955 Saint-Pierre-de-Clages
РDomaine Cornulus, 1965 Orm̫ne (Savi̬se)
– Domaines Rouvinez, 3960 Sierre
Vully (Région des Trois-Lacs) / 6-8 June
www.vin-vully.ch
– Cru de l’Hôpital, 1787 Môtier-Vully
– Javet & Javet, 1789 Lugnorre
Vaud / 7-8 June
www.cavesouvertes.ch
РLes Fr̬res Dutruy, 1297 Founex
– Domaine du Daley, 1095 Lutry
– Château d’Eclépens, 1312 Eclépens
– Caves des Rois, 1844 Villeneuve
Simon Hardy holds a Diploma in Wines & Spirits. He is the founder of Fitting Wines, which provides a range of personalised wine services in Switzerland. For more information please write to contact@fittingwines.com.
The Jura – the land of yellow wine
Switzerland lies at a wine-making crossroads in Europe. Not only is it home to a diversity of wonderful wines and stunning vineyards, but it also borders some of the richest and most varied wine regions in the world. In this first of a series of articles to learn more about our wine-producing neighbours we hop across the border with France to the Jura.
Every wine region on earth strives to promote wines and traditions that set them apart. The Jura, one of our closest neighbours, does this better than most. Since it lives in the shadow of more illustrious Burgundy it certainly needs to punch above its weight. The Jura’s truly distinctive contribution to the world of wine is Vin Jaune. On the first weekend of February each year this unusual wine is celebrated with grand pomp at ‘La Percée du Vin Jaune’ when the latest vintage is officially released.
Vin Jaune is atypical in many ways. First of all, it is made from the Savagnin grape variety (which also produces dry white wines in limited quantities in the Valais where it is known as Païen or Heida). This so-called ‘vin de voile’ is the result of a veil (or voile) of yeast that is allowed to grow on the surface of the wine in cask. This veil protects the wine partially (but not totally) from oxidation in the barrel and imparts a particular nutty taste somewhat resembling a dry sherry. In fact, this veil of yeast is rather like the flor that is responsible for the Fino style of dry sherries in Spain though, unlike sherry, Vin Jaune is not fortified with alcohol.
By law Vin Jaune has to wait six years and three months after the harvest before it can be bottled. In other words, this year’s Percée sees the 2007 vintage being feted. Even then, the bottle itself is one of a kind called a ‘clavelin’. It holds just 62 centilitres (rather than the typical 75 cl wine bottle), supposedly the volume of wine left from one litre after six years.
The wine can come from a range of appellations such as Arbois, L’Etoile, Côtes du Jura and Château-Chalon, which ranks as the most famous. Regardless of origin the wine may not be to everyone’s taste. Nevertheless, it is worth trying at least once and preferably with a plate of local Comté cheese and walnuts. The combination brings out the very best in all three components. A local dish that is proudly served at every restaurant is chicken (preferably from nearby Bresse) cooked in vin jaune with morel mushrooms, to which a glass of the wine makes the perfect match.
However, there is much more to the Jura wines than Vin Jaune. You can also expect to find good sparkling wine, Crémant du Jura, made from Chardonnay and using the same traditional method of production as Champagne. For sweet wine lovers there is delicious ‘vin de paille’ where the grapes are traditionally dried on straw mats after the harvest to concentrate the sugars in the grapes before fermentation. If you like to try obscure grape varieties you need look no further than the indigenous Poulsard and Trousseau black grapes that produce red and some rosé wines. The region also makes quality dry white and red wines from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the classic grapes from neighbouring Burgundy. Finally, if you like age-old traditions, you must try Macvin du Jura that has been produced in the region since the 14th century. It is a sweet ‘vin de liqueur’ fortified with Marc du Jura, the local pomace brandy, and can be enjoyed at the start or end of a meal.
As so many of the best examples of these various Jura wines do not leave the region, one of the best ways to sample them and to enjoy the cuisine and hospitality of the region is to go there. There is a great website full of useful information on the region’s wines and foods: www.jura-vins.com (though only in French). For information on the region as a whole in English and other languages visit www.jura-toursim.com.
The Jura can also claim to be the birthplace of Louis Pasteur, the great French chemist and father of microbiology. While he may be best remembered for his groundbreaking work on vaccination and pasteurization, it is thanks to him that the modern wine and beer industries came to understand the process of alcoholic fermentation. Take a guided visit of the Musée La Maison de Louis Pasteur in Arbois, open from April to mid-October.
The Percée is one of the most popular annual wine festivals in all France so expect to join tens of thousands of visitors who have also chosen to brave the predictably cold weather. Visit http://www.percee-du-vin-jaune.com/ for more details on this weekend’s big event (though only the French language version is for the 2014 event). If you do decide to join in the festivities and discover Vin Jaune and the many other local treats, make sure you wrap up warm!
Simon Hardy is the founder of Fitting Wines, which provides personalised wine services in Switzerland. Contact: simon.hardy@fittingwines.com
Bar à vins à la mode
Once upon a time – and not so long ago – you would have to visit a wine producer or go to a ‘caveau des vignerons’ in a wine-producing village to sample the wines of Suisse romande. While this traditional approach remains a well-trodden path, a more contemporary and consumer-friendly concept is starting to make its mark. Over the past five years the wine bar (‘bar à vins’) has established itself here as a welcome and welcoming alternative for going out with friends to enjoy a glass or two of wine and even a light bite to eat.
Lavaux Vinorama in Rivaz
While the producer’s cellar or village ‘caveau’ is somewhat clichéd in appearance and cool in temperature, the new generation of wine bars is typically modern in design and warm in atmosphere. The focus is on providing a consumer experience that is at least as satisfying as the quality of the wines. This fresh approach to the enjoyment of wine should make most of these establishments an attractive place to go. But it seems that many of the wine bars in this part of Switzerland are frequented largely by locals and tourists rather than by the expats who live here.
The Café des Arts in Nyon, right opposite the Hotel Beau Rivage, offers a range of around 30 premium quality wines. Evidence of the focus on quality is the state-of-the-art Enomatic dispensing system, which ensures the quality of each glass served. While the majority of the list is Swiss from the cantons of Geneva, Vaud and Valais, there are fine examples from France, Italy and Spain as well as occasional selections from the New World and several great Champagnes. The comfortable wine lounge with its dark décor, candlelight and bold works of modern art is an invitation to spend a relaxing evening with friends. Sitting at the bar lets you get to know the owner Patrice, who has some great ideas for making the wine selection (which changes every three months) even more special.
At the other end of the lake, just five minutes from the Aigle motorway exit, the Badouxthèque in Yvorne is an enterprising creation by the wine producer Badoux Vins. This wine bar comes as something of a surprise since the exterior of the building, converted from an old garage, provides few clues as to the pleasantly large space on the inside. Whether you sink into an armchair or sofa, sit up at the bar, perch at a high table or settle at a dinner table, Anik and Olivier Cuche are ready to serve you any of the 20+ wines produced by the Badoux estate. This wide choice of white, rosé and red wines includes the Aigle Les Murailles, one of the reference wines in the region, and means that there is always something to discover, even if no other producer’s wines are on the list.
For yet another variation on the wine bar concept the Lavaux-Vinorama in Rivaz offers by far the most extensive selection of wines, numbering more than 250 from 150 different wine producers exclusively in the Lavaux region. This wine bar may have found its place as a stop on the tourist itinerary. But it is still the simplest solution for tasting your way round the region and avoids the need to visit the plethora of producers one by one. Not only is it a showcase for the rich variety of wines produced in Lavaux, but it is also a great place to learn more about one of the few wine-producing areas in the world to have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The setting of this wine bar is fairly intimate but, in the absence of any lounge area, you may find the best way to sample the many vinous delights is to make short but frequent visits.
Each wine bar serves a range of cold meat and cheese selections and, in some cases, tartares of steak or salmon. These can easily satisfy hungry appetites and also pair nicely with the wines. Check out each website for more details, including their opening times:
Simon Hardy holds the Diploma in Wines & Spirits, the top qualification at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust in the UK. He is the founder of Fitting Wines, which provides a range of personalised wine services in Switzerland. Contact Simon at www.fittingwines.com.
